When your garlic arrives…

Open the package and leave the bags open. Store your garlic in a cool, dark place between 12°-18° celsius until you are ready to eat or plant it. 

Do NOT store your garlic in plastic, this can cause it to mold. 

We do not recommend storing it in the refrigerator as this can cause it to sprout. However, please note that it is still good to eat after it sprouts, it just causes the cloves to become small and dry at a faster rate.

How We Grow Our Garlic in Austria

Note: please research the best growing tips for your region/climate/elevation. 

See our Garlic Groups Comparison Chart for general information about each individual garlic group. 

We plant our garlic between September-December, at least 2-4 weeks before the ground freezes solid (not your first frost!). This enables the cloves to establish some roots while minimizing the amount of top growth prior to winter. In areas where the ground does not freeze solid, it is recommended to plant 2-4 weeks before the coldest time of year. 

We fertilize the garlic beds well with manure or compost.

We break the bulbs apart and use all cloves that are plump and firm. We only plant cloves weighing over 4-6g each (depending on the variety; the larger the variety, the heavier the individual clove). It is not necessary to peel each clove. Garlic cloves need to be planted with the root side down and the pointy tip up. Cloves should be planted approximately 20 cm apart with 2cm of earth over the tip of the garlic. 

Garlic should be planted in full sun and rich, well-drained soil, though garlic will tolerate many soil types. In clay soil, structure can be improved with organic matter, not sand. 

Immediately after planting, we apply a few inches of mulch such as chopped hay, leaves, or grass clippings to insulate the soil and suppress weeds. 

It's important to keep the garlic beds weed-free. We don't water after planting, we let nature take care of it. However, if it is a very dry spring, the garlic beds can be watered, but keep the water in the root zone, not around bulbs. Watering should be avoided for 2-3 weeks before harvest.

Garlic loves plenty of sun and thrives under snow.

Removing flowers from the Hardneck varieties. Again, reference our Garlic Groups Comparison Chart for which varieties these are. Hardneck varieties will send up a flower stalk called a scape. When the scape has formed one curl, these should be removed so growth is directed to the bulb. These are a tasty treat, too!

Harvesting & Curing

We harvest by eye and date. We typically harvest our garlic between June 18th and July 1st, but this can vary by region. 

If the greens of the garlic plant look like they are losing color and starting to shrivel, it’s time to harvest. We harvest when about two thirds of the plant is still green. Each green leaf equates to one bulb wrapper that will remain on the bulb once harvested. Fewer bulb wrappers result in shorter storage. 

We brush off excess dirt and hang bundles out of direct sunlight where there is good air circulation. In wet climates, a fan might be needed. We let bulbs cure for 3-4 weeks. Softnecks take longer as there are layers of cloves. We then trim roots and cut the neck 2cm above the bulb. 

Storing

After curing, we store in netted bags or ventilated crates. Ideal storage temperatures are between 12°-18° celsius and 45%-60% humidity. 

As mentioned, refrigerators are too humid and garlic will begin to sprout below 7° celsius.

Our garlic has shown to store up to a year in ideal storage conditions, but this depends on the season. As long as the cloves are still firm, they are good to eat. Even sprouted garlic is good to eat, but the longer it is allowed to sprout, the drier the cloves will become.

...this is usually not a problem for us garlic lovers, because we eat them right away!

Enjoy!